Jewellery With A Mission
In Indonesia, there are a number of artisan jewellers that create unique and intricate designs, inspired by natural elements and cultural heritage, including in the form of literature, myths, songs, motifs, and traditions.
Indonesian jewellery exports are on the rise. In 2019, Indonesia exported USD 1.53 Billion in Jewellery, making it the 14th largest exporter of Jewellery in the world. In the same year, Jewellery was the 22nd most exported product in Indonesia. During 2020, Indonesia’s jewellery exports increased by 24.21%. The biggest export destination countries for Indonesian jewellery are Singapore, Switzerland, Japan, Hong Kong, the United States and Australia.
What makes Indonesian jewellery special? Let’s look at two Bali based jewellers, firstly Gardens of the Sun (GOTS), an environmentally and socially ethical brand that focuses on traceability in sourcing their raw materials and Tulola which has many distinctive styles that range from small everyday-wear pieces to more ornate artwear all made with exceptional care and attention to detail.
Sustainability Efforts
Many Indonesian jewellery brands take part in some form of ecological or social sustainability by sourcing materials from artisanal miners or having their jewellery made by artisan villages, which in turn supports said villages. Gardens of the Sun, for example, have full traceability for their gold by only sourcing from artisanal gold miners, this in turn means their gold sourcing is mercury free. GOTS’s sourcing of gold and gemstones directly supports Indonesian villages both through their fair pricing and through the social projects, such as scholarships, that the brand has set up for their source locations. Additionally, they undertake many environmental efforts including, using 100% recycled silver, funding old mine-site rehabilitation and extensive tree planting.
Affordable Statement Piece
The works of many Indonesian jewellers, while aesthetically impressive, also have many practical elements. Most of their works are available in either sterling silver or 18k gold-dip. The latter is dipped on a sterling silver base that is long lasting and hypoallergenic as it contains no harsh metals such as nickel, cobalt or zinc. This method for production has proven to allow for more intricate designs at a lower cost which means a more affordable opportunity to obtain your own unique statement piece, without compromising on quality. Not only that, but the lightweight nature of sterling silver makes the jewellery more comfortable to wear for long periods of time compared to solid gold pieces.
Bringing Intricate Craftsmanship to the Modern World
What separates Indonesian jewellery from other international brands? The skills that the jewellers learned from their predecessors are adapted to improve excellence in the craftsmanship of their pieces. Wearing pieces by designers such as Gardens of the Sun and Tulola is akin to wearing an artistic expression of music, art, culture and history. In particular, Tulola’s collaborations with Indonesian singers, designers and models have also attracted the attention of international celebrities such as Tyra Banks and Courtney Love.
One example that modernised traditional styles is their take on the classic Balinese subeng earrings. Subeng are a type of ornamented stud with an oversized back (pictured below). Tulola used the traditional style and updated it with modern elements by using a floral motif and including different stones such as amethyst, moonstone, black onyx or pearls. In some of their designs they turned the traditional long earring back into a pyramid shape, giving the earrings a more contemporary look.
Amethyst Gold Dipped Subeng with floral design. From Tulola website.
Checkout www.gardensofthesun.com and @gardensofthesun for more info